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Sanilac Co. Michigan | OK, I'll put in my $.02 opinion.
I've been no-till for over 20 years, pretty much continuous with the exception of filling in tile runs, clearing small woodlots and fencerows, and cleaning up ruts and wash outs. My ground varies from beach sand over gravel all the way to wet clay with what some would call a "cold bottom" to everything in between but no muck. Oh, and I live in an area that seems to be more cool and wet than warm and dry. Sitting on my front porch, it's easy for me to preach no-till as I look around me, but of course I can't see Manitoba or New York state.
What I think I KNOW is this:
No-till is a system that takes a little more thought than buying a tool and sowing seed to make work.
Beets, potatoes, peanuts, carrots and such are what "experts" would call "problematic".
Beyond fuel and field time, the real benefits don't accrue till after the first four years.
The first four years are critical in establishing a conducive bio-environment for successful no-till.
If you're starting a piece of ground down the no-till, start with something easy and forgiving like soybeans and work your way up.
Be particularly attentive to the basics, DRAINAGE, LIME, FERTILITY, WEED CONTROL, kind of in that order.
That's like six things off the top of my head. The biggest problem I see "here" to making the system work revolves around land tenure, how long a time you will be able to work a piece of ground. If a large majority of your ground is rented on a three year or less basis I think it's difficult to become 100% no-till.
So, does no-till work everywhere? Ya, I think it likely CAN, I'm just not sure it's the best solution to any given situation. | |
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Notill success
