| Stop and Waste Valve or hydrant to fill water tank?|
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|I picked up a 12,000 gal water tank that I am going to use for to tend my sprayer. It will be fed off of a good sized well that currently feeds my house as well as my brothers, but no livestock. |
I was thinking I would run a 1" water line to it and put a stop and waste valve in the ground. But I am wondering if this will fill the tank fast enough that we will have water pressure issues in our houses. With a tank this large I won't have to worry about it filling up fast as I should have plenty of water ahead of my sprayer at all times.
Should I just put a hydrant in expecting it to fill slower? Or put an underground stop waste valve in and another shutoff valve above ground that I can use to "throttle back" the flow if needed?
The well is pretty well centered between the three places we need water. Maybe 300' from the shop where the tank will sit, 150' from my house and 200' from my brothers. We each have pressure tanks in our houses and we will install a pressure tank in the shop as well. The water does go to my house first as all the well controls are in my basement, and then out to my brothers house. He doesn't seem to have any trouble with this set up and he probably has 500' of water line between the well and his house.
There are no check valves in this system so water can freely flow between everything.
Edited by bleedred 6/9/2013 21:43
|We have 1000' of 1" water line running to our shop. Filling a sprayer we could have three hydrants into tank. One hydrant works, two will faster but not double, three won't make much difference. With that much water capacity i think i'd just put 1 hydrant with float valve. Turn it on in the spring and unless you have trouble leave it on all year. With the amount of holding capacity unless you run 24 hours a day at 20 gallons an acre and have perfect tending, your never going to need added capacity of strait 1" valve in my opinion. Planing on doing the same thing for little project of our own. I just don't think it's worth it putting in this strait valve, hydrant is little more idiot proof in the winter time. |
Edited by NEILFarmer 6/9/2013 22:07
|I installed a float valve on top of my supply tank. Can run a lower rate and still not worry about running tank over even in night.|
|I will definitely have a float in the tank. |
A stop waste valve is proving difficult to find locally... But so is a 1" hydrant. All they stock around here are 3/4" hydrants.
What kind of acres/day and gpa are you planning on running that a 3/4" hydrant won't keep up when given a 12,000 gallon head start?
|It shouldn't ever be a problem with that much water ahead of me. I would just like to be able to shut it off during he day if it taxes our water usage to much and then let it run hard overnight. |
Not to mention those inevitable days that I forget to turn the water on ahead of time... But with a good float shutoff and no leaky connections I should be able to turn it on in the spring and shut it off in the fall.
I normally spray 12.5 gpa but would like to up that for some things... Still at 15gpa I could easily spray all day on 12,000 gallons.
Edited by bleedred 6/9/2013 23:54
|I have purchased the valve you speak of from Kelly Supply, they would probably have the hydrant as well. Many Iowa locations. http://press.kellysupply.com/|
Mobile at times
|I have two 1500 gallon tanks in a shed for filling the sprayer. They are connected with a common hose and some valves so the tanks can be filled with different products if necessary. When I'm using them both for water, I just leave the valves open between the two tanks. I have a float permanently mounted in the lid of one of the tanks. |
I forget the brand name (Hudson?) but this is the style that doesn't restrict the flow much when filling. It uses a clever design with a diaphragm rather than the direct float restriction such as are often used in livestock tanks. I feed this float with a 1" rubber hose to a regular hydrant. The 1" rubber hose flows better than a garden hose.
I keep the tank or tanks full most of the time during season. If I start spraying, I turn the water back on. With a SP sprayer I can use the water faster than it gets replenished but I have never run out. The level tends to catch up when moving between fields, lunch break etc.
By having the tanks inside out of sunlight I do not have problems with algae although I do need to clean the tanks out due to sediment once a year. The sediment settles to the bottom and is not a problem as the tanks are not moved in season.
Some have suggested that warm water may be more effective than cold ground water. I don't know that I believe this but the first water out of the tanks has warmed to outside air temperature.
Edited by tedbear 6/10/2013 06:54
Put a gate valve or quarter turn ball valve in front of your float. If you have pressure issues turn it down a bit.
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