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Iowa | I've got one and am doing something simular (different fertilizer products) to what you are planning. It takes a little work to get all of that set up, but works well once it is calibrated. You'll have to run the pump slow to get those rates with an eight row planter. It can be done with the right sprokets. The flow out of the double acting piston is smooth, but not perfect. I was a little concerned about that, so I installed an air chamber in each output line to dampen any pulses that might happen. The flow to the row units is very smooth that way. That probably was not necessary on my planter, and maybe not (but more likely) even for your eight row. I would do it anyway.
Keep in mind with the small orifices used to keep the flow rates even between each row at those lower rates per acre will result in a lot of backpressure if your dad decides to crack the throttle open and plant at 7 or 8 mph. If you think he could tend to get a little wild and do that very much, you might want to install some relief valves. The pump is designed to put out X number of gallons per acre regardless of the pressure required to do so up to a point. You don't need to increase the speed very much to result in operating pressures with this pump doubling or tripling, because this pump is capable of much higher pressures (well over 100 psi) than most other types. Most other pumps would max out on pressure and application rates would drop as ground speed increases under the same circumstances. My orifices are sized to run at 25 to 30 PSI at normal planting speeds. Plumb in some guages so they are visible from the cab. One thing you'll notice with these pumps is they can achieve high pressure anytime the throttle is inadvertantly cracked open, and the row unit lines will seldom get plugged with dirt. You'll also notice any hose fittings that are not tight.
I was told you do not want to let this pump run dry, so I've got mine plumbed so that if I run out of one product or don't want to use it, I can circulate some the other product through the dry side and send it back to the supply line or to either output system. You'll want to keep lines and valves labelled well if you do this. The last thing you would want to end up doing is sending the 28% to the seed furrow by accident. I also reversed the male and female couplers on the fill lines for the tanks to reduce the possibility of filling the starter tank with 28%.
An eight row planter is really on the smaller end of the range for this pump at the three to five gallon rates in my opinion. You might consider running two smaller pumps from the same drive. I would not be inclined to drive these, or any fertilizer pump from the same shaft as the seed meters. -not sure from where youre squeeze pump is driven. It's probably best to drive a fertilizer pump directly from the planter's primary ground driven shaft or from an additional ground drive wheel.
On the other hand, given that your planter is an older 7000, you might consider how much time and money do you want to spend on it and how long yu plan to keep it. If the squeeze pump sustem is working on it just fine as is, you could leave that system as is for the 2X2 placement and just get one smaller, single product pump for the stuff going in furrow. The JB Dual rate pump is an expensive item to put on an old planter, but it could be saved and used on a newer planter down the road.
Edited by tigger 1/16/2013 12:36
 (JB dual rate pump.jpg)
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 JB dual rate pump.jpg (79KB - 466 downloads)
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2 product CDS John Blue fertilizer pump for corn planter
