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Sanilac Co. Michigan | Oh boy, I've been thinking along the same lines as you! If the engine and hydro is sound, and the frame still has it's integrity, here's a few things that will really make the L3 stand out.
1)Make sure the raddles, beaters, and walkers are up to snuff along with all bearings, rubber bushings, idlers and blocks.
2)Look over the concave. If it's warped or bent or just plain worn down replace it.
3)Replace the cylinder bars/cylinder with an enclosed cylinder from St. Johns Welding or Precision Welding. >threashing capacity
4)Replace the adjustable sieve with a perforated sieve for soys. Dramatically reduce pods in the bin.>seperating capacity
5)Modify the chaffer so you can adjust the front, middle and rear ranks of fingers individually.>shoe capacity
6)Modify the concave by cutting open a portion of the steel floor and installing extra grates.>threashing capacity
7)Do the threasher reverser modifacation, and properly shim/adjust the feeder beater drive.<psyciatric expense!
8)Put an air reel on your head.
9)Change the A/C over to the new stuff and replace your old rubber lines.
10)Stick a yield monitor on the old girl.
11)Go ahead, "Gild the Lily"and replace the cab interior and floor mat.
I think thats most of it. I'm sure there's other things that can improve function and comfort. I've done most of these to my 82' M2 and it's really improved it's performance. I've often speculated on the ultimate redux of an L3. Hope you go for it! | |
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ultimate L3 rebuild
