| 15-40 oil in gas engines|
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eastern south dakota
|I've been wondering if I can use 15-40 oil in an old Chevy pu. with a 350 engine in it. I always have that oil on hand for my farm equipment and just this pickup is gas and I put 10-40 in it which I buy just for it. If I need to add a quart I might not have that quart on hand, which is a bothersome little thing. |
I know the clearances in the main and rod bearings are the same in gas and diesel engines so what would the difference be?
|I've used 15-40 in my old chevy pickups (78, 93 350's) for years and had no problems.|
|No problems what so ever. |
|I am sure there will be a bunch say that it shouldn't be done but ..... I do. I have an old '75 GMC pu that is the service/fuel truck that I have been running 15w-40 in for 15 years. It doesn't get many miles per year and it leaks more than it burns but it gets the same oil as the tractors. I have a couple of old gas tractors for pto work and an older gas straight truck that gets 15-40 also mostly because it's handier to have one oil on the service truck. No failures yet but proceed at your own risk.|
NW Ohio,near Findlay
|I run it in everything except 4 wheeler and motorcycle. Have 200 thousand on Honda van and works and runs like new. Get a new one will do same.|
Eastern VA. No such thing as too many Magnums.
|Thats all we use in all engines, little gasoline pumps, all the way up to the Semis. Pickups and wife's suburban included. I don't know if you need the 10W part in South Dakota, but the temp only gets down in the +teens occasionally in Virginia.|
|I was thinking the labels on diesel oil also include the different classes of oil for spark engines, so I went outside and hunted up three old oil containers......Delvac, Mystic, and Cenex Superlube. One of the labels said....."For use in all gasoline autmotive engines currently in use where SAE 15w-40 that meets API SM, SL or SJ is specified." All had similar labels. I have used diesel oil in all my gasoline engines for more than 50 years with no problem whatsoever..... |
I have always thought using diesel oil in a gas engine is actually a higher specified oil than is recommended.
Edited by nwiafmr 12/1/2010 12:32
|Only barrel of oil I own, but do use synthetic in some vehicles.|
|a good mechanic told me they took something out of gas oil and you should not use it in older gas engines. harleys do not use a gas oil but use a diesel oil. its not a 15w-40 but something like a 10w-50|
East of Dowagiac Michigan
|It worked in my '90 Chevy for a while.........I had run it 16 years-180,000 miles before the transmission quit. My '02 Chevy with a 5.3 has been getting 15/40w since I drained out the break in oil.....130K. My S-10 does okay with 15/40w as well.|
shoop - 12/1/2010 12:38
a good mechanic told me they took something out of gas oil and you should not use it in older gas engines. harleys do not use a gas oil but use a diesel oil. its not a 15w-40 but something like a 10w-50
It is the zinc addative for wear ,it is "said " to plug cat converters .
Gas engine conventional oil these days is garbage .
Diesel oil is better , but it has alot of the zinc removed from it too now ,because of the DPF's on 07 and newer diesels .
I use mobil 1 in little honda car , everything else gets 15w40 diesel oil.
If you want some good oil ,get mobil 1 0w50 racing oil .
Edited by tommyw-5088 12/1/2010 12:54
|We use it in every engine on the place , the ridding mower,4 wheeler, cars, pickups,tractors swathers, etc.|
|Okay to use diesel oil in gas engine, just not the other way around. A Shell Engineer told me one time that all oil is good just not to mix them. In a quart of oil, there is only about 1/2 quart of real oil. The rest is additives. Manufactures use different additives that may not mix with other manufacturers additives. |
Instead of adding a quart of diesel oil to existing gas oil, I'd drain and refill with all diesel oil.
|Cant say that i would feel comfortable starting it when its 6 degrees like it was this morning, or colder, because it will get colder. Also i know your not planning on using it in a new vehicle but certain car manufacturers will void engine related warranties if the correct oil is not used, just something to think about.|
I'm not sure if this is appropriate, but besides agreeing with all the posts that 10w-40 is fine, I tried a quart of Lucas engine oil treatment in my '97 Chevy 350 cid pickup with 302,000 miles. I've run 10w-30 synthetic and when that ran down a quart, I just added the Lucas. So far, it's added 5 psi to hot idle oil pressure and stopped oil consumption. I guess for next oil change I'll just go with synthetic and add the Lucas right away. I'm not advocating for Lucas for everyone, just telling how it went in this instance.
Hope this helps. Take care. Stetts
|Fighting suburbia NC|
Too close to Raleigh, NC
|For fuel efficiency (less reciprocating drag on rotating assemblies) newer engines are spec'ed to run 5W-30 or 0W-30. I was surprised to see the oil cap on my Dad's 95 S-10 showing "Use only 5W-30 oil" when I changed it recently. At the increased temps newer engines run for emissions reasons the oil takes a beating from the heat whereas older motors run relatively cool and do not thin out the oil quite as much. Depending on the expected low temps in your area a 0W or 5W might not be out of the question. Here in the mid-Atlantic area we rarely see teens but so 10W-40 or 15W-40 is not an issue. |
I believe I read somewhere that new VW motors call for a 0W-20 oil or something. That must have the consistency of cowboy coffee.
Lori's car is the only thing that gets 5w-30 around here. It has just over 150,000 on it now. Everything else gets 15w-40 Rotella or whatever brand around here. I have one gas pickup that has 275,000 miles and has never been down except for O2 sensors and such. When I worked in the fertilizer business, my company truck never used anything but 15w-40. They were still running at over 200,000 when they found a new owner. Of course the pickups I'm speaking of are GM. My F-250 is a pig and is on its third engine with only 80,000 miles but I think that is more of a testament to guys that put the first 60,000 on it.
I don't think it matters. Just like ortho and poly phosphate.
Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND
|Diesel oil has more ZDDP in it than the new gas engine oils, so is better for the cam and lifter life of an old flat tappet cam Chevy. I run 15-40 diesel in my tired 250,000 mile 80 GMC. Only thing is the cold weather, cranking and time to get oil pressure is much worse than when I ran Mobil 1 synthetic oil in that pickup. Cold start lubrication is not as good as with thin oil, so let it idle for a bit before driving on that first cold start of the day.|
|Have been running Delo 15-40 in everything from Lawnmore, Cummins 855, and 03 Taho, no problem here of course we only see |
32 deg. a few days during the year. Have been using Delo Oil since 1960 never had a problem.
White Stone, Virginia
|Remember that 15 is the cold weight. That is what the engine sees on startup. You may get more start up wear if it takes longer for the oil pressure to rise.|
|I run 15-40 (diesel) in everything that isn't new (including the 2004 Olds Alero), love it. Except for my little '02 Ranger which called for 0-20 (so I listened, not sure it was necessary), and the 08' Tundra, which also calls for 0-20 and gets it (for now). Hard to believe they can make tolerances so tight as to Need 0-20 for a hard working engine (and my engines work Hard), but welcome to the 21st century I guess. Never had trouble, even in the cold with good heavy 15-40.|
Mount Vernon, WA
|A lot of oil out today is multi-rated for both gas and diesel (e.g. CJ-4/SM). It's generally OK to use diesel spec oil in a gas, but not the other way around, and most certainly not in a post 2007 diesel.|
|i put 15-40 in an 04 ford for going on 5 years and it hasn't bothered any at all|
|Up until about five years or so ago we used to keep Case IH 15 W 40 and whatever 10 W 30 oil our fuel supplier carried around. The 15 W 40 for the tractors, trailer trucks, combine. And the 10 W 30 for the pickups. But that was always a hassle, so we started just buying Rotella T 15 W 40 oil in gallon jugs and are now using it in everything. So far, in the GM 5.3L gas engines I cant see any problem with it, but we will maybe have 5 mornings a year in single digit temps each winter. On those days it does take a little longer than I would like to see it to get good oil pressure, but its hard to say "how much" longer it takes than it would with 10 W 30. Its pretty easy, now my wife and I take a date about every three months and go to Sams Club to buy the Rotella T (about 30 gallons at a time), and 30 rolls of blue shop towels since they usually run out about the same time!|
Edited by TrentonKY 12/2/2010 07:45
Farwell, TX/Pleasant Hill, NM (Western Panhandle)
|My dad used 15 - 40 for years and years in his mail route Rangers. Took 3 of them over 200k with no engine problems. If you can catch those weights on sale for $10-11 per gallon that is about $2.50 a quart. Not bad considering Penzoil is over $3 a quart most places now seems like.|
|I also use 15-40w All fleet oil in everything. However last year when I, the wife, and some friends went to Chico Hot Springs Montana last winter the wheather went to 18 below. Boy did the 2001 OlDs van start hard! That little starter on those cars really has some poop! Others cars were needing jumps and plugged in to get going. I was wishing I had the 5-30w oil in it at that time. |
The only real reason light oils are in the newer cars (80's and newer) was for gas milage and emissions to meet Government requirements. That's why light oils were also put in stick transmissions, transfer cases and rear ends. I know that I lose about two miles per gallion by not using 5-30w in the OLDS.
|The only problem with 15w-40 is slow starting below freezing temperatures, otherwise my 1989 C2500 with 117,000 mile still runs like new.|
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