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Mid-Missouri | Think it would work decent? Something about the size of a D7E blade. Have the tongue start behind the blade, go up, over, and forward to the tractor drawbar. Use something big and heavy for the axle with two or four large tires behind the blade, about 8 feet behind the back of the blade with lift cylinders. I would think old dozer blades would be fairly easy to come by. Would a 320R or 936 versatile pull something like this decently filling in riddles and doing some leveling? My neighbor built one of these I need to go see. Anybody make one or a company sell them? Any pics? |
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Brazilton KS | http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/list.aspx?ETID=1&OHID=5576982&Manu... |
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Mid-Missouri | Obviously the combo grader/boxblade types are more versatile, but much more money. Are you saying the dozer blade won't work, waste of time,...? |
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Northeast Louisiana | I think you would have a nice heavy blade. The pic plowboy got is a nice way to do the dozer blade. It should be fine if you design it very well. |
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Brazilton KS | I think building one from a dozer blade is going to be a long row to hoe. I'm not sure exactly how you want to use it, so I can't really say if it would work well or poorly. For what I would use it for, I would much rather have something like a moldboard from a 16 motor grader or a farm dozer blade....or if I wasn't going to try to windrow with it, just a big box.
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Northeast Louisiana | Dad bought a Cat roadgrader and was going to build what your talking about. Use the turntable for turning and angles. Put a heavy axle and wheels on rear and a hitch over and outward toward front. Havent done it yet.
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| it would work- i pulled my neighboors built that way with side tilt a few years back. Not having time to make my own, I decided to buy a Kuntz super heavy duty 14 foot with ripper teath. It works great on my MX270 with front duals. |
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| I have a Landoll Icon 1632. http://www.landoll.com/Icon/PDF/116782%201632%20lit.pdf It has flip down ends to box in the blade. I never use the boxed ends. The wide blade will fill up with dirt so much in the middle that I can't either pull it or can't dig any deeper. The dirt rarely fills out to the ends of the blade in a straight pull. It works very good for filling in ditches or touching up terraces. I pull it with a Case-IH Magnum 245. It can stop the tractor easily in its tracks. A dozer blade will not be 16' feet wide. The width is needed if you angle the blade and still want to cover the width of the tractor duals. Using a dozer blade as a scraper or box blade would be fine but you still won't need the height of a dozer blade. The Icon blades ability to tip as well as angle makes it very versitile. |
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Galahad, Alberta | Years ago, a farmer here did something similar to what you are thinking of. Took an old cat blade, cut the c-frame off the back and welded it to the front for a hitch, then built a lift frame on the back. Worked great, nice and heavy, good solid box scraper.
Here are some other sites that may give you some ideas:
http://www.masterindustries.ca/Products.html
http://www.bridgeviewmanufacturing.com/products.php#pulldozer
http://www.cwenterprises.ca/Grader_Photos
http://www.hygradegraders.com/HyGrade%20Grader.htm
http://www.peloquinmfg.ca/megaboxshaper.html?mode=preview
Rosco |
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Whiskey, Tango, Foxtrot | Local guy usually builds a couple a winter like that. He basically cuts the arms off, puts them on the front, builds a hitch between them. Then find an old semi trailer axle for some spindles and tires. The best ones are built so both tires will raise and lower together, but one can also be raised indepedently to tilt the blade. A two point hitch also works better than a drawbar hitch, as well as gives you some extra clearance to dump muddy stuff or weeds.
They aren't nearly as fancy as the grader plowboy linked, but for stuff other than grading roads or trying to windrow material they work fine. Other than lots and lots of welding wire, gas and time, they are fairly cheap too. |
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Advice: Dozer blade for box blade?
