Posted 7/8/2010 02:02 (#1264921 - in reply to #1263760) Subject: RE: Answers..
Sorry for the late response. I am working late this week. Don't get home till 10:00 pm (Pacific Time).
A. With your answer, My guess is that you probably aren't having an "air in the fuel" type of problem. That would really hurt your "cranking" fuel pressure.
B. Another "check" on the wiring, is that you can wiggle the loom around while the engine is idling and see if the engine "burps" or jumps/hesitates in RPMs. Wiggle it at the ECM, under the cylinder head, behind the air compressor, right at the RPM/timing sensor, right where the loom curves in front of the front valve cover, etc.
C. Did the adjustment seem to look any different, from when you first removed it? I know it is hard to tell, without measuring it beforehand, but sometimes a guy came visually see a little difference. What color was the tip? If it was black or white, I think I would replace it. If it was green tip, they have been pretty reliable, but they still can fail, too. The newest rpm/timing sensors are solid and non-adjustable.( I assume they are more powerful, to pick up the "reference teeth" for the signal to the ECM, thus no adjustment.)
D. Good, that you have a hand priming pump on the engine.
E. Thanks for the serial number. That engine will have a little lower fuel pressure than later engines and/or later transfer pumps. I still expect 60-65 psi at idle. CAT says anything below 35 psi , while running will cause misfire.
On what Bern said, about the OEM tach, if the tach is operated by its own (KW) sensor, then there should be a sensor(magnetic pick-up) in the lower area of the CAT rear engine bellhousing(points towards flywheel ring gear teeth). If you were to stand behind the engine, and look at the bellhousing, then the KW tach sensor would either be at the 5:00 o'clock position or the 7:00 o'clock position. The KW tach sensor will have two wires coming out of it. My guess is that KW still used their own sensor to operate their tach, back then, before they felt 100% comfortable using the CAT signal for their dash tach.
Also, as Bern said, there won't be any fault code IF, during cranking, the "RPM SIGNAL" isn't getting generated(bad sensor) or not getting back to the ECM(bad wiring), thus the ECM never tells the injectors to fire(doesn't know the engine is actually cranking).