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Zimmatic wiring code
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Jay in WA
Posted 4/29/2006 00:45 (#8552)
Subject: Zimmatic wiring code


I have a rented Zimmatic that giving fits. What is the color code for the span wiring? Nothing is labeled, the owners manual has no schematics, and the dealer is a joke. It's about 5 years old and has the green basic panel.
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WYDave
Posted 4/29/2006 00:55 (#8557 - in reply to #8552)
Subject: RE: Zimmatic wiring code


Wyoming

Lemme see if I can do this successfully from memory:

 

Brown -- 120 VAC safety circuit. This goes through all the alignment limit switches on the machine.

White -- common (neutral) for the 120VAC control circuit.

Purple -- either forward or reverse, can't remember which just now.

Pink -- either reverse or forward, see above.

Orange -- percent timer. This is carried through all the way to the last (outermost) tower on the machine and turns on/off the outermost tower.

Yellow - end gun.

Blue, Red, Black -- 480 V, 3-phase.

Bare or green -- ground.

If this doesn't get you going, flip up another posting or flip me an email. if you'd like the schematic, drop a line and I can FAX it or scan&email it to you.  If you can describe the problem, I might be able to tell you what/where it is.

 

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Jay in WA
Posted 4/29/2006 01:01 (#8558 - in reply to #8557)
Subject: RE: Zimmatic wiring code


Thanks Dave thats what I needed. I am just going to write the color code on the inside of the panel door.

This pivot is intermittently loosing the percent timer signal to the last tower contactor. I thought I had figured out that it was the percent timer. I was wrong though.
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WYDave
Posted 4/29/2006 01:13 (#8564 - in reply to #8558)
Subject: RE: Zimmatic wiring code


Wyoming

OK, two things come to mind:

 

1. The simplest explanation would be a loose orange wire in any one of the towers. On the post-2000 Zimmatics, all wires that don't have something to do in the intermediate towers are nonetheless junctioned in each tower box on that rotary switch and the barrier terminal. Check every intermediate tower to insure your orange wire is carried through successfully.

2. OK, now the more complicated. In the second-to-last tower, the percent timer line is run through the stall timer. This will be a little blue box with a dial on it. The way this works is that if the last tower has been running for > 90 seconds (factory setting), but the second-to-last tower hasn't kicked on in that time, then the stall timer opens up the brown lead and safety-stops the machine. If the last tower has been running non-stop for 90 seconds and the second-to-last tower hasn't had to come on in that time, then the end tower is stuck. Someone could have mucked about with the stall timer -- they're just a little box with a dial on it, and nothing in the manual to say "Set this to X, and LEAVE IT ALONE." The old manuals said that, but the new manuals all say "Call your dealer" for everything. Fat chance when the nearest dealer is 240 miles away.

3. Last issue: If this problem only happens in one direction, there's a "turn-around" relay in the last tower that turns the voltage on the forward/backward lines (purple/pink) back inward on the machine, down the brown line. This relay is a SPST and I think the forward is the normally closed setting on it. It's just a wee little relay, an insubstantial little poof of a relay. If you had a lightning hit or some other problem, it could be burned a bit and be intermittent on the energized setting, which would make the brown lead open up, stopping the machine. The best way to determine if this is the problem is if the machine has problems only in one direction and not the other.

 

 

The best way I've learned to think about how pivots operate is this: the end tower moves. The rest of the machine plays catch-up. Nothing happens until the end tower moves far enough to cause the next tower inwards (the second-to-last) to see the alignment switch get far enough out to cause the second-to-last tower to move to catch up to the end tower and keep the machine in alignment. So I go looking for problems from the end tower inwards now, rather than the pivot panel outwards.

If you need the schematic, just yell. I've got nice, clear copies.

I also have the data sheets on the stall timer.

 

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Jay in WA
Posted 4/29/2006 01:38 (#8567 - in reply to #8564)
Subject: RE: Zimmatic wiring code


I checked the percent timer at the timer its self with a digital volt meter and it was loosing power intermittently. When trying to run slowly the overwater timer would kill the machine. Bypassed the overwater timer and discovered that the end tower was not moving properly. Right now it is running on 50% and staying running. But I know that it is not working correctly. I am beginning to wonder if the timer is loosing power to it. I need to spend some more time on it tomorow. Whoever designed that panel should be fired. Almost nothing is color coded. They must have gotten a good deal on red wire.
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waterboy
Posted 4/29/2006 08:19 (#8598 - in reply to #8557)
Subject: Re: Zimmatic wiring code


Pink=Forward
Yellow=Reverse
White=Neutral
Orange=%timer
Purple=End Gun
Brown=Safety
More than likely per cent timer.
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Mike inIdaho
Posted 4/29/2006 08:36 (#8604 - in reply to #8552)
Subject: RE: Zimmatic wiring code



I would look at
1- Precent timer
2- Collector ring at pivot, above panel, for loose wire
3- Loose wire as Dave said, going through each switch to end tower. Set percent timer at pivot on O and follow power from 1st tower, on out to the end. Check each micro switch with voltage meter to make sure power is flowing through to the next tower.
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dutch
Posted 4/29/2006 09:58 (#8622 - in reply to #8604)
Subject: Re: Zimmatic wiring code



West Texas
We've been having LL with micro switches here lately. New ones don't seem to last past 2 days. Are getting some from a different supplier now and they seem to be working ok.
Saving all the 'bad' new ones and we are sending them back.
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Jay in WA
Posted 4/29/2006 10:16 (#8624 - in reply to #8598)
Subject: Re: Zimmatic wiring code


I thought it was the percent timer too. Installed a new one and it still acts the same.
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Gary Lyon
Posted 4/29/2006 23:59 (#8817 - in reply to #8567)
Subject: RE: Zimmatic wiring code



Southeast Wyoming

Jay, we have 3 Zimmatics but they are all 25+ years old and have a different panel and probably different tower boxes.  Easily 90% of electrical problems have been microswitches but your problem does not sound like a failing microswitch.  We had a stall timer that periodically would not catch/reset, causing a shutdown; another time we had a loose wire in the control panel.  Adding capacitors (??) to the microswitches helped immensely on their life, but they still fail far too often.

With our style of panel and tower boxes, if we were to intermittenly lose power to the percent timer (if not dropped due to misalignment or similar issue), that would be a panel/power issue, not a tower issue.  If you said, I missed whether or not the forward or reverse contactor was dropped at the same time as the percent time lost power.

If you know the percent timer is intermittenly lossing power that probably means you are working with the panel open and live.  BE CAREFUL! (you know that or you would not be posting here!)

When our units run at 50% but not at a slower rate, I would check to see that all tower shutdown microswitches are properly centered in the cam when the alignment microswitches are camed in their proper working range.  Sometimes the arm on the microswitch needs to be bent to align them properly.  (Edit - actually this would be the fix for the pivot not running properly at a high percentage rate.)

 I would also look to see that the stall timer is not hanging and is functioning properly: sometimes the style of stall timer we have wear out or the screws loosen, allowing the clutch to slip.

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Mike SE IL
Posted 4/30/2006 06:59 (#8844 - in reply to #8552)
Subject: NVDave & Waterboy, your colors don't match ...



Brown, white, orange you agree

Purple - NVDave says forward or reverse, Waterboy says end gun

Pink - NVDave says forward or reverse, Waterboy says forward

Yellow - NVDave says end gun, Waterboy says reverse

Of course, the possibility is you are both right.

Local now retired Valley dealer was telling us one time he had a neighbor talk him into looking at an "off-brand" (I think it was an Olson). He finally agreed. He said "I climbed up on it and popped the cover off and every *&!#!! wire was red !" I guess they just used number flags to mark them. Works great when the flags are new.

 

 



Edited by Mike SE IL 4/30/2006 07:23
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