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| Looking for a couple stand alone HID lights. Were is the best place to get a couple stand along lights as far as quality and price? What color light as well? Looking to put on a CNH 7010 and JD 8320, will electrical system be able to handle it? Links would be appreciated thanks |
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WC Iowa | http://shopsmart.networkwcs.com/sloanex/cart.cgi?PRODUCT=097527&SPD...
These are the same brand that JD and IH use. I have tried some of the others but the speaker HID lights are the best. Hella is a close second. I have a set of the visionX (http://www.visionxoffroad.com/hid/4600/) lights but they are a 7000k bulb and doesnt put out the lumens but it does have a nice pattern. I am going to put a 4100k bulb in them now that it is raining and i got the proper tyco superseal connectors yesterday to connect the new bulb to the built in ballast. That ought to make them a decent light for the money. HID lights take less amps to run than halogen bulbs but they do have a quick amp spike when the first turn on, but it is nothing that those machines couldnt handle.
Edited by blakezr2 10/21/2009 21:43
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Iowa | I would look at these....
http://www.jwspeaker.com/catalog/forward_lighting/model_9710_9720.h...
.....or these....
http://www.jwspeaker.com/catalog/forward_lighting/model_735.html.
JW Speaker's 736 LED light is the same as the 735 except a L/R mounting configuration.
LED lights can be powered using "normal" sized wiring. HID lights should have power components with a higher current carrying capacity. That is why I really struggle with all the NAT'ers that are buying the DDM, MobileHID, eBay, etc. HID products and throwing them into situations where the power circuits were designed for small halogen lights. IMHO, it is asking for trouble in the long run (not to mention the EMI issues that the China HID ballasts have). |
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NE SD | Reality is though that our JW Speaker Xenon lights use the same size wiring as any other halogen lights from the factory. |
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Iowa | What gauge? Sometime I'd like to look at how Deere does their power distribution for the various points of lighting. Every HID circuit I have had put together "by the book" is sized larger to ensure the ballast is being run in its optimal range as well as the fuse(s) sized to handle the current spike when the ballast is striking, |
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NE SD | I think it was like 18 (maybe 16) when I was doing the work on our 9230 last winter. On the 30 series now it is all in the CAN BUS. I can turn on or off any set of lights light (matching light on opposite sides) through the side console for the different switch positions on both high and low. |
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| The HID lamps are nothing like a halogen - ie. it's not just a brighter halogen consuming more power. Actually except for maybe a start up surge I would say they use the same power or less (I'm using 35w hid bulbs in place of 55w halogens). It's a lot like replacing an incandescent bulb with a flourescent bulb - the disadvantage being the need for a ballast to raise the voltage and start the lamp. Ballasts have come a long way - used to be all heavy coils, but many are now run by a special power supply (using transistors with just a small coil). In a car you have the added complication of only having DC - can't use a transformer to step up voltage. However, the HID power supplies can do the voltage changes with it's circuitry. Bottom line, HID wasn't very practical in a vehicle until the ballast/power supply technology and application got up to speed. Now if you can find a spot to stick the ballast, they are a great replacement for halogen.
My 7140 now has 2 35 H4 bulbs in the headlights (don't have hi/lo beam function though - a drawback) and 2 35w H3 bulbs in the roof lamps. I've been testing them and they run no hotter than the halogens (and maybe cooler - I couldn't fit an H3 HID into the headlamp assy so it has a halogen along side the main H4 HID - the halogen definitely gets hotter faster).
So, I think you have to look at HID differently - often you use a smaller wattage HID which should take less power and have a lower wiring size requirement. The drawback is the bright/dim feature costs more and seems like it might be clunky and you have to find a home for the power supply (ballast)
Thanks,
Pat |
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| http://cgi.ebay.com/HID-Tractor-light-4x6-Flood-Light-Deere-Ford-CA...
I bought two of these and mounted them on my 2388 and the worked very well. Also the guy I bought them off of was very helpful. |
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Panhandle of Texas | http://www.ddmtuning.com/catalog/HID_Kits-85-1.html
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| How many lumen does a 35Watt HID put out compared to a halogen or a LED such as Jacob proposed??? |
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| I got some HID-4601 from the ebay guy, but off his other website http://visionxstore.com/ He really knew his product and customer service was great. The 35watt HID puts out roughly 3,400lumens, a 50watt HID puts out about 4,800lumens. He also told me that VisionX also has some high powered LED's that range from 900lumens all the way up to 20,000+lumens. Depending on the size and shape. But really for Ag use, the 4" square Solstice 4100 is very good at 3,600 lumens and they are rated at 50,000 hours. Has anybody tried these out? I'm thinking about it.
On the HID current draw, the problem is even though they use less than 4-amps when they start, they take almost twice that much power to start so the wiring should be heavier gauge. They guy told me 10-12 gauge for long runs.
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| If you think of it though the extra starting current really isn't a problem since it's for such a short duration. The wiring is basically a large resistor and just like a toaster needs time to heat up. A short burst of current has little affect. It could blow a fast blow fuse, but most fuses are slower blowing since momentary surges or even shorts (ie. brushing a hot wire against ground) do not have any significant affect. Installing larger wire would be a waste and generally doesn't happen unless the steady state draw of the lamp is higher. Most replacement kits are designed this way - otherwise we'd have melted harnesses on 1000's of cars.
Also, lets not confuse LED with HID - completely different - LED's need current limiting resistors to function and produce more heat and draw more steady state power than hid, but usually less than halogen. HID is still a cousin of a fluorescent bulb.
In the past more light was only achievable through more power draw - more current, brighter filament. However, using different technologies you can have the same light with less power - HID needed ballast technology and a stable arc, LED's needed/still need brightness and heat dissipation. Overall both use less power than a white hot piece of wire (filament).
Thanks,
Pat |
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| The extra current shouldn't be a problem, but over a long run of wire, the current loss is more and can be measurable. I've seen HID lights on 18 gauge wire and when the switch is on, only one will fire the other flicker and shut off because it is starved for current.
Yes, HID is far superior in technology. It uses no "hot wire" filament, the light is created by an arc between two electrodes on each side of the glass bulb that is filled with Xenon gas. This is one of the reasons they last 10 times longer than Halogen, there is no delicate filament to break.
LED is radically different still. They are merely diodes on a circuit board, no glass, no gas, no filament. LED's can last from 50,000-200,000 hours depending on the wattage of LED's used. This technology has come a long way too, before engineers couldn't figure out how to project the light forward, now the optics have been designed so well, that they can maintain 95% efficiencly by re-focusing and the light emitting from the diode. Giving very good, bright usable light.
The real advancment in this technology has been the efficient design of the heat sink housing. It pulls the heat away from the ciruit board, and dissipates it off the rear. This one 4" LED light above puts out more light than a 35watt HID, and draws less power. |
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Iowa | way_out_west - 10/23/2009 01:39
I got some HID-4601 from the ebay guy, but off his other website http://visionxstore.com/ He really knew his product and customer service was great. The 35watt HID puts out roughly 3,400lumens, a 50watt HID puts out about 4,800lumens. He also told me that VisionX also has some high powered LED's that range from 900lumens all the way up to 20,000+lumens. Depending on the size and shape. But really for Ag use, the 4" square Solstice 4100 is very good at 3,600 lumens and they are rated at 50,000 hours. Has anybody tried these out? I'm thinking about it. On the HID current draw, the problem is even though they use less than 4-amps when they start, they take almost twice that much power to start so the wiring should be heavier gauge. They guy told me 10-12 gauge for long runs.
3,400 lumens out of a 35W HID light? Huh?
An HID will pull much more than 2x the nominal operating current on startup. I have seen them pull 20+ amps. |
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| Yes, 3,400 lumens from a 35watt HID. And 3,600 lumens from a 40watt LED.
You made my point exactly on the start up draw. If they take a HUGE current spike to start, then you need to have the correct gauge wire to be able to supply the current. These Duralux/VisionX lights only take 8-amps when they start up, and settle down to under 4 amps once they've completely come on.
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Iowa | way_out_west - 10/26/2009 12:51
Yes, 3,400 lumens from a 35watt HID.
What bulb? D1S? |
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| I believe it is a D2 bulb, They told me its the same bulb that's in their Baja Offroad Style lights. The 4x6 light, IMO, is the best value aftermarket HID available. It's only $219 with internal ballast. Just two wire hook up, and you don't have to buy a cheap halogen housing, then a HID conversion kit from a bunch of Hobo's that don't know anything about tractors. When you convert a halogen light, the reflector is designed around that halogen bulb, not the light but of an HID. HID bulbs are longer, their position inside the housing in relation to the reflector is critical for optimal light projection. Bottom line, it's not the most efficient way to do it.
The new LED stuff is pretty crazy that they've come out with. The 6" Solstice is 4,800 lumens, that is brighter than any HID http://www.visionxstore.com/index.php?cPath=45&sort=6a&page=2
I picked up one of the 20" bars for the front of my jeep, and HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My bar has 12 of the LED's, and it's 10,800 Lumens.
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Iowa | I can almost guarantee you that those light output levels are raw, not effective (on-the-ground). Be careful reading too much into the marketing. |
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| That is true, the lumen rating is what the LED is rated by the manufacturer. The real technology is in the optics, and how the light gets focused and projected forward. I can tell you this, the 20" light bar I have creates a pefect beam with no hotspots, or dark areas that projects well past 200 feet before it begins to diminish and carries an effective, usable beam a good 150-200 yards. I have the 10 degree beam, which is the narrowest, but there are other beams available for wider, close up spreading. |
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Best place for HID lights??
