Formerly NE North Dakota, now NW MN | Dave, sorry, but Cobra is not the only thing labeled for white mold.
Endura is a Cadillac treatment, so if you go that route I think you have the right to expect pretty good results. W.M. is soybeans is a tough animal though. Some varieties are VERY susceptible, others just kinda aren't and I have never been able to figure out ahead of time which is which until we get to harvest and either the field is a flat black lodged mess of 7 bu. beans or it's normal.
Cobra does work, and it only takes like 4 ounces (at least for me. Label says 6 but whatever) to impart SAR (systemically acquired resistance), but do NOT apply cobra on flowering beans in the hope of controlling mold. V3 is about the perfect time to do that stunt.
If money was no object, and I could swing as big a hammer at the problem as I wanted, I'd go with 20floz of topsin, not at full bloom, not at 10% bloom, but when the first plant in the field is even thinking about blooming. Early early early. I've never regretted applying too early, in dry beans I have often regretted applying too late. Then I'd come back at like r2ish and put a 3/4 rate of Endura, maybe throw a full rate of tilt in there because it's cheap and covers alot of other stuff (endura has kinda a narrow spectrum, so it'd be kinda silly to spend all the money on endura and then have some other exotic disease that tilt coulda taken care of hurt you).
Put plenty of NIS with both applications. Don't apply them over 85-90 degrees when the plants could be starting to shut down. Molds tricky, but if you've had it in those spots or fields before, and you have dewy mornings and no high temps into the 90s..... |
Fungicide for white Mold Control in Soya
