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SW Ohio | Lots of things to consider, length of front overhang(depends on if pulling behind baler)height(limited or not?)Size of your bales? Etc. Start with strong stringers, we have two like shown with 8" channels, two with school bus frames, three with heavy wood beams, and one with laminated beams. Channel models have a 2x4 bolted on and SS screws into that to not drill flange of channel, bus frames have bolts thru flanges, some of the wood rails have angle iron brackets to 4x4 cross beams and some have cross boards screwed direct. All have edge rails added some top and some top and bottom. Back rack or standard as we call them must be mounted solid, if wood on wood must include a metal reinforcement. All ours have a rear hitch at back of bed and most have a floating corner attachment to gear but we find this is now unnecessary. We also add a good place to tie ropes and lots of reflective material.
The single most important thing to do is orient the grain of the wood the proper way.
Let me repeat, the single most important thing to do is orient the grain of the wood the proper way!!!!
Look at the end of a board, is the grain pattern smiling at you or frowning, you want it to frown, to shed water off, not hold it in.
Plan on painting or treating with your home brew to preserve the wood, even if using treated wood.
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 hayflat3.JPG (78KB - 1742 downloads)
hayflatdone2.jpg (77KB - 1974 downloads)
hayflatdone9.JPG (93KB - 1834 downloads)
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tell me the design of a great hay wagon bed!!!!!!!!!!!
