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sw corner ia. | well, if you are bound and determined to keep the cyclo here is what I used to do.
put rubber weatherstripping between the holes on the drum, they will cushion the cutoff wheels and absorb any bouncing tendency. get it at menards I will show a pic..
put a 1/1 6" slab of poly on the firewall, this will be a cut and fit deal, use self tapping screws and yellow weatherstrip glue. Make sure of the gap on the drums so they will turn easily when pressurized. again, I will put up a pic..
make sure your right angle gearbox(es) are absolutely smooth, rebuild as necessary (more common than you would like)
make sure you have all bearings tight and turning smoothly on all the driveshafts from the drive wheels to the transmission. there are a lot and it is pretty easy to replace them all.. just sayin'..
replace any chain that has any play at all, use justice brothers spray lube on them and use it a lot, keep all chains tight on the transmission. fabricate a spring loaded tightener on the drive wheel chain, helps a bunch.
if you have much use on the tubes replace them. They will get rough inside and seed will start to bounce screwing up stand like crazy.
I never replaced the v frog, couldn't see it helped one iota, but use either the shaffert or the keeton firmers, I prefer the latter. This will be a big plus.
Replace the leading edge opener with a trailing edge opener, the bevel will be on the inside and you will cut a clean slice which if you notill will be the holy grail to planting in trash. makes a very narrow trench too. make sure they are gapped closely enough. watch them because they will rub some and cut a groove in the front one on the inside.
replace the leading closing wheel cast bracket with a trailing one which will mount the wheels exactly opposing each other and move that one away from the gauge wheel so it won't catch a root ball and plug the whole unit. your dealer will ask if you need mental help on this one. I do not know why case thought it was a good idea because it was a constant source of pain for me.
Now we come to the seed brush. One of the last things I was going to fabricate was an outside adjustable cutoff brush. I never got it done. Too bad, because this is a huge fine tuning tool, and a little makes a monster difference. I found 40# flats (I did say flats) work better than any other seed size and I tried everything and run the brush about 2/3 of the way close. use just enough air to keep seed in the holes as they go by the cutoff brush. hook up a big drill onto the drive shaft, run the planter while sitting in front of your shop with corn in it so you can watch the seed drums. You will see on top as the seed goes by the brush whether it is getting knocked out completely or not, if you can run about 8 or 9 on the pressure guage and keep the holes full you are getting pretty close, if you see some empty holes and can run enough more pressure to fill them you are probably getting as good as it gets. don't do this in the field or it will cost you money.
make sure your drum stabilizer wheel has a good bearing in it (under the drum, runs against it) if it is just a little loose chuck it. these don't seem to last very long either.
if you are into notil you might need more downpressure on the units, drill a new hole farther back on the upper parallel linkage and move the crossbar back there, you will have to add weight to the wings now if you have a vert fold planter because the unit will now hold it up. really works in the toughest conditions too.
I usually ran about 5.5 mph, you have to slow down to about 3 before it starts to look like a good stand anyway, do all this and it is good enough you will not lose much yield (notice I did say not much)
Make sure you have no air leaks around the fiberglass top, if so silicone and pop rivet the crap out of it. usually can get it stopped.
I kind of liked the cyclo idea, I just never could make the stand look like it should with pops at this level today (32K). Good luck to you..
Edited by dvswia 12/19/2010 22:37
 (early spring 06 030.jpg)
 (drum.JPG)
 (firewall fjirewall plastic thickness.JPG)
 (firewall plastic 1.JPG)
 (firewall plastic 2.JPG)
 (firewall plastic side.JPG)
 (leading edge is now the trailing.JPG)
 (plastic fix.JPG)
 (rear shot of closing discs.JPG)
 (new dp holes.JPG)
Attachments
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 early spring 06 030.jpg (49KB - 199 downloads)
drum.JPG (61KB - 199 downloads)
firewall fjirewall plastic thickness.JPG (50KB - 181 downloads)
firewall plastic 1.JPG (58KB - 187 downloads)
firewall plastic 2.JPG (61KB - 207 downloads)
firewall plastic side.JPG (54KB - 183 downloads)
leading edge is now the trailing.JPG (45KB - 189 downloads)
plastic fix.JPG (56KB - 209 downloads)
rear shot of closing discs.JPG (75KB - 191 downloads)
new dp holes.JPG (41KB - 205 downloads)
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Seed spacing?
