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Jersey Shore, PA | Bought a 30 gallon chemical cone to put onto my tender trailer. I'm not sure how it should be plumbed properly in the system. I have 2 big tanks that I draw water from.....they go into my pump/motor then into the sprayer. In the pic below, the motor will be mounted on the side of the trailer right between the tanks, then the hose goes from there to the sprayer. Also what's the best way to set up a rinse line for the cone? Also I saw in other posts a venturi valve mentioned. What exactly does that do and do I need one? I liked all the previous spray tender setups you guys posted.............especially the van trailers. Had some great ideas.
Thanks
Scott
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 spraytrl.JPG (81KB - 1662 downloads)
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Bethany, MO | For a mixing cone to work on the pressure side of the transfer pump, you will need a venturi. If you plumb the cone into the suction side you don't. The venturi speeds up the flow of water to create a vacuum from the mixing cone. We don't use the venturi ($) so ours is in the suction line before the transfer pump. All chemical and AMS goes through the transfer pump. |
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Jersey Shore, PA | Got it! I was planning on plumbing it into the suction side anyway so I won't need the venturi. Thank you for the info.
Scott |
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| Just to make you aware of one problem with the Chemcial cone on the suction side, you will end up with chemical back in yoour clean water tanks. If that is not a problem for you then you should be ok. We put them on the pressure side of the pump with the ventri, then you never have to worry about contaminating your water supply. In my opinion the only place the chemical cone should go is on the pressure side of the pump. It cost more, but then having contaminated water can cost alot more.
Edited by ndarbuckle 3/7/2008 10:07
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Agent Orange: Friendly fire that keeps on burning. | If you put the cone downstream of the pump, you will have clean water for rinsing jugs or washing your hands or the sprayer. My setup has one extra valve so I can bypass the venturi but I seldom use it as the venturi seems to slow the pump very little. |
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NE SD | Never ended up with chemical back in our clean water tanks in the 10+ years that I've been helping with the spraying. |
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Jersey Shore, PA | Ok I see your point. I was thinking of setting it up on the suction side as follows:
Have 2 big tanks with line coming off each into pump. Have chem cone with line coming off it into pump. Have garden hose plumbed in somewhere to rinse cone and wash windows when needed. That way with suction coming off cone right to pump and suction sucking fresh water out of one of the tanks, I shouldn't have to worry about backfeeding of chemicals right? That was just my initial thought anyway.
Scott |
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Agent Orange: Friendly fire that keeps on burning. | You will have chemical in your pump. Takes a while to wash that completely out. |
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| That may work better, and I would give it a try if you are dead set against the venturi style. Just be aware that you may end up with chemical back in the tank and you should check for it. I know two guys, two differnt spray trailers, went and looked at them saw there cone was on the suction side of the pump, had them move it to the pressure side with a ventrui and there was no more problem. The thing with the venturi style is they create much more suction than a cone on the suction side. YOu can even suck powdered chemical through them, that is why if you look at any sprayer that is on the market today, the cone eductor is always on the pressure side, it just plain works better. |
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Jersey Shore, PA | Like I said before, that was just my initial thought. I'm certainly not set against pressure side. Wanted to see what some of you with experience had to say. Next question(s): Where do I get a venturi? How much should I expect to pay? Where exactly does it go in the system? I really don't want to skimp a few dollars only to have chem getting back thru the system.
Thanks for the help
Scott |
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Agent Orange: Friendly fire that keeps on burning. | I made the venturi on this one: 
The copper nipple between the yellow handled valve and the blue handled one has an extension made from 1 1/4" copper pipe, brazed to the end and extending about half ways into the male Banjo coupler. It had nearly as much section as the store bought one I replaced it with here: 
The venturi is the tapered top piping. I quit using my old cone because the handler has blades inside for opening plastic jugs and the plumbing alongside the cone is for rinsing the jugs as you empty them. I think the cone, blades, stand, venturi, valves, and plumbing was somewhere around $600. |
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Jersey Shore, PA | Ed,
Thanks so much for the pictures and the great info. That will help me out a lot in figuring this out.
Scott |
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How to plumb a chemical inductor
