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loading dock - wanting to build one
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mennoboy
Posted 8/3/2011 19:05 (#1894006)
Subject: loading dock - wanting to build one


Rivers, MB		Anyone got any good ideas, pictures, things to do or not to do.

Seems like it would be a handy thing to have around. Thinking one height for step deck/pickup truck height and another for car trailer height (18"). sometimes its a pain to use the ramps.

have a spot that naturally has the correct height, just need to make a vertical face on one side so that we can back up to it. We have a bunch of cement railroad ties that would work for the vertical face, just need something to hold them in place. Thinking some oil field pipe.

Thanks in advance.
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Gerald J.
Posted 8/3/2011 20:00 (#1894099 - in reply to #1894006)
Subject: Re: loading dock - wanting to build one



I've been figuring on some old telephone pole bases, but actually one pile stacked up is holding up well with just weeds and grass on the sides and since the trailer has a few feet of overhand its not absolutely necessary that the slope of the ramp be vertical on the trailer side except to allow for the trailer sinking when loaded. No use ripping the back bumper off when pulling the loaded trailer away. And a few inches gap is easily bridged by tractor tires, though the lawn mower can't jump such a gap. As for holding ties or poles probably 1/2" rerod is adequate and a whole lot easier to drive than oil field pipe. I'd drill holes and drive it down through the ties, like I saw done on a TV show building a kids sand box set into a bank with three ties high wooden walls. They used 1/2" rerod. Except that wood is more cushiony than concrete blocks. the blocks made for embankments would work too.

Gerald J.
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Hayinhere
Posted 8/3/2011 20:24 (#1894136 - in reply to #1894006)
Subject: RE: loading dock - wanting to build one


Central NE

8' H-beams, used if you can find an old bridge cut up.  Demolition company's like to save piles of useable Iron.

3 or 4 - 8'x8" H beams stuck in the ground with RR ties laid in crosswise is what I do.  Takes about 2 hours to make if you have a loader and auger.

You can use 4"x8"x8'  I beam for the two ends if you want to save a few bucks.



Edited by Hayinhere 8/3/2011 20:32




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NEILFarmer
Posted 8/3/2011 20:36 (#1894155 - in reply to #1894006)
Subject: Re: loading dock - wanting to build one


Morris, IL		One of my neighbors used some concrete dividers, like you see on interstates sometimes, i think he just poured gravel on the side of them with no supports, not sure. Never really looked at it much but if i ever put one in i'm looking into doing it like that. I like you idea of two different heights, how tall is the top one going to be?
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nsfarm
Posted 8/3/2011 20:48 (#1894173 - in reply to #1894006)
Subject: Re: loading dock - wanting to build one


Manitoba, Canada		lots of old scrap I- beams in the back corner of westman salvage. If you could pile drive them into the dirt that would be good.
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Ben D, N CA
Posted 8/3/2011 23:00 (#1894543 - in reply to #1894006)
Subject: RE: loading dock - wanting to build one



Whiskey, Tango, Foxtrot		I'd use K rail. One piece of K rail is not that expensive, and it eliminates a whole lot of fooling around trying to stack up RR ties and such.
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Badger
Posted 8/4/2011 00:20 (#1894722 - in reply to #1894006)
Subject: Re: loading dock - wanting to build one


Huntley Montana		The concrete blocks that measure 2'x2'x6'. They weigh about 2 ton ea. Put a foot of dirt under & lay them so the flat side is up & the rib is back. takes 3-4 for a end load dock, or 7 for a step deck side unload. If anything happens they are easy to remove & redo.
I have 3-4 of these docks scattered around.
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