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| I have a friend I am going to help dig up a burst water line, It is near his 4 ft frost free hydrant, which is outside his barn by 3 or 4 ft, ( it happened this winter and he was able to shut the supply off at his house for now ),anyhow he is going to quit feeding steers for now, and from this hydrant at the bottom where his water feeds it, it "Tee's" and goes on to his cattle waterer in his barn ( which is 3 or 4 ft away, but inside the barn ).
Is there a way or how do you guys install a valve that he could cut off the water supply in the ground ( 4 ft down ) to his cattle waterer ?
I was thinking of having a plastic 4" or 6" piece of pvc pipe come up to ground level and have a threaded cap over the top. This pipe would be notched out for water lines and to fit over and around the valve, the threaded cap could be opened up and use a fabbed up tool I could make to turn the valve on from ground level when he wants to, if / when he decides to feed cattle again, instead of digging ground back up and hooking in again...
Then if I plumbed a tee on the waterer side of the installed valve, attach a permanent hose or pipe to this and bring it up inside the standpipe where we could use air to blow out the waterer line from ground level, when the waterer valve would be shut off.
What kind of valve would you recommend ? I was thinking brass ball valve, I think the water line is either 1/2 or 3/4" pipe
We probably would have to stuff this pipe with insulation so the cold would not travel down the standpipe and freeze things in the future ??
Any help, or ideas greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Rog |
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Morris, IL | Relatives just did something like you speak of. They used valves like these. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-in-Underground-Stop-Waste-Valve-... They had a pair of 3/4 or 1" valves that had bleeder so when they shut them off line drains down to 4' where the valve is at. In their situation they will use those valves for water supply in shop. They also used a 1" valve right off the well to shut off entire farm yard without changing anything in the house. I don't think that valve had bleeder. They did just like you speak of with PVC pipe and some kind of cap, and he built a rod to shut them off from surface. I wouldn't post this for him like this but i know he reads but i haven't been able to get him to post yet.
Edited by NEILFarmer 4/14/2014 09:15
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East Central Ia | +1
Any plumber will have those on hand. It is what they use for all house in town to connect them to city water mains.
I installed one going into my shop as well.
It is a curb stop.
It consists of that shut off valve, with or without the bleeder that drains the water back out, a curb box which sits over top of the valve and comes up to the surface, and the curb stop key which you can drop down inside the box and turn the valve on/off with. |
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North West IA/western AZ | I had the local plumber install water stop and drains outside my hog buildings. They are brass (I think) with a cap and I made a shutoff tool for them. Pretty sure they are common to most city water systems for house shut offs. |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Here's a couple photos from internet: Edit: I think our plumber just installs 4" PVC pipe that he cuts a couple slots (where pipe enters and exits) for curb stop. He cuts with a hacksaw, but then takes a torch and warms the pvc pipe and bends outward those two "flaps" (they will lay on top on the water line) and the remaining sides of pipe, go down beyond pipe (= it keeps pvc pipe centered , so your On/Off tool will get to the curb valve). He only sets on those "push-on" caps(on top) = easy to remove; but this last one was at the fenceline, so cattle don't bother it, and he just drilled a small hole in cap and left the On/Off tool (homemade with rebar) in that cap's hole, setting correctly on valve about 5 foot down. This was for a cattle waterer, near a fence. Top of pvc pipe sticks above ground about 6-8".
Edited by 4WD 4/14/2014 10:08
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| curb stop, I could not think of that name...my body must need more MT DEW !
Thanks to you all for replies right away !
Rog |
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| I did that right inside the shed wall and used a screwed PVC plug on top. I did put in insulation in the PVC, like the rural water company does in their meter boxes above the meter.
Gerald J. |
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| As others have said, you need a stop-and-waste valve. I have put in a few of them by drilling 2 holes in gated pipe and assemble the valve in the pipe with stubs sticking out each end. I made the pipe long enough to be flush with the ground and extend about 12-18" below pipe grade. After everthing was in plane and backfilled I poured some water down the hole, poured some sack-crete on top of that and some more water, making a hard bottom in the pipe. |
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NW Ohio | Go up to Perrysbugh Pipe and Supply and get a curb stop valve. They have the down pipe and wrench also. |
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ecmn | yeah a curb stop would be a good one to use, the ones we put in, in Minnesota for highway use are brass with flared 3/4 or 1". but you can get any size. use clean sand around it and a brick under it. the stand pipes are adjustable in height. even though its a flared fitting we use a dope on the front and back of the flange and on the threads as well.
most curb stops are not a drain back type, but if you get a drain back type you need to put some rock around it and plastic on top of that. fire hydrants are that way and we put them on a block with rock. so the water has somewhere to go when it drains out.
when back filling around any water or sewer line make sure no bigger stones are touching the pipe, movement from frost or vibration from the water moving will wear a hole in them if against a stone. over the last couple years a heavy plastic wrap on service lines is becoming more popular and on mainlines is pretty much the norm.. |
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underground water valve ideas
