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GREEN FARMER![]() |
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central mn | Curious as to what others have installed on their 7000 planters that they think are must haves, I was also wondering about putting poly seed boxes on mine, I have a few boxes that are starting to crack in places and saw that shoup has poly boxes for $65 or something like that, are these good boxes? has anyone put the bottom insert in the boxes to help them clean out completely? Also, I saw on here some pictures of the row units with backs cut off where the insecticide boxes would go, I was wondering if you had to reinforce the unit some how after cutting it off. Thanks | ||
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abordone![]() |
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SW Indiana | The all out hopper bottoms are a must have. Only problem with them is that they don't always hold their shape and some seed gets under them. Doesn't stop planter from planting though. Some might say that a Jamison drive is a must have. (gets rid of the clutch). | ||
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rocknkcattleinc![]() |
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NW Iowa | I custom built a 16 row last year, I cut the insecticide frames down and went with the poly boxes. I just plasma cut the frames, no need to reinforce it has a support already behind the box. The poly boxes are nice, no more little fiberglass to mess with and the poly has a nicer yellow color. It took a little time to get the box hardware to fit, had to kinda bend each one so they fit their own row. Nothing aftermarket is perfect. Only thing I don't like is they don't make a poly extension for those boxes and the fiberglass ones don't match or fit right. Any other questions just ask, there's nothing stock JD & 7000 on my planter besides the row/seed box frames and the parallel arms. Just about every upgrade you could do was done and then some. The pictures are not the finished planter. Edited by rocknkcattleinc 1/10/2013 21:09 (2012-03-10_12-24-05_480.jpg) (2012-03-10_16-56-45_613.jpg) (2012-03-24_12-53-06_778.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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corn48![]() |
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N.E. OHIO | who makes the hopper bottoms? | ||
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wi_aggie![]() |
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Cen IL | My first question would be: what are you doing for meters? Hoppers don't help a plant stand... | ||
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pbutler![]() |
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Macon, IL | If you no-till into stalks Jamison Drive rocks! I put the inserts in-even caulked around them. BUT somehow still manages to get bean seed in there somehow between box and insert. I like the inserts because cleans out the box well-especially when changing corn hybrids. But when monitor shows empty it is EMPTY-no more going back there and sliding a little in to get to end of field. I don't like them because when I change meters the beans seem to roll out all over the shop. | ||
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Boiler78![]() |
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Must haves in my opinion: 1. Precision finger pickup meters 2. Keaton firmers 3. Equalizer for gauge wheels | |||
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NMO Redpower![]() |
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MO | Get rid of the factory closing wheels and convert them to the new style like the newer Kinze's have. No more smashed hands trying to drive out a seized up roll pin. The bolt on style have a way better bearing set up, if its like most 7000's half the closing wheel bearings are out anyway. Take a look at RK products. They have a real slick way of tightening up the gauge wheel arms. | ||
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Robert W Greif![]() |
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Dallas Center IA 515-720-2463 | I fully agree with NMO RedPower about the closing wheel change over. You will have the much better later bearing. Probably last twice as long as the standard roll pin bearing. Plus - Big PLUS - About one hundred times easier to change. About $16- per row. I got mine from Shoup. Probably others sell them. Instead of driving out that roll pin. Then getting the old wheel out of the mounting. You just remove a 5/8" nut and slide the wheel off. On my 7000 soybean planter, if I need to replace a closing wheel. - That row gets a new Closing Wheel Arm, and two new Bolt-on style, big bearing closing wheels, mounted with the stud kit. Also the deal that mounts the gauge wheels with a set screw vs the factory roll pin. Again a whole lot easier to do. My 7000 has been 100% set screw on the gauge wheels since the 16" row rebuild in 2004. And last put Jamison Contact Wheel Drive on. Much MUCH better than the factor ground drive. Unless you really want to get nice and put Rawson Hydraulic Drive on. I have 100% faith in the Finger Meters and Kinze Brush Meter. Would not put the PP vacume deal on if they paid me to do it. Pic is the Closing Wheel Stud Kit (SH23780.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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Illini Fan![]() |
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Greene County, Illinois | Does Jamison have a website, I can't seem to find one by searching. | ||
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Gerald J.![]() |
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There was a factory option row unit without the herbicide extension. You might wish it was there for adding weight in hard ground unless you go to stiffer springs. I added Dawn Trash Whippers to my 7000 and flat coulters to cut the straw or stover so the trash whippers could spread the straw or stover. I mounted the flat coulters a couple inches off the row and when planting corn injected 32% in the slots with thin ammonia knives. I never found all that many seed in the hopper bottom when the monitor showed a row had quit. The hopper had only a few dozen seed, not enough for much row so it wasn't much of a bother or worth the bother to shove those to the meter, it was more worth while to grab my seed scoop and move some seed from the rows that had the most seed left. So to equalize the seed to let me finish the row before going back to the shed for more seed. Gerald J. | |||
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PTO![]() |
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Northeast Misery | +1 on the brush meters. They'll pay for themselves the first year when replacing the feed cup. jmo | ||
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abordone![]() |
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SW Indiana | Not sure who makes the hopper bottoms, but you can get them from Shoup. I wouldn't be without them with the price of seed these days. | ||
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4640![]() |
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south central kansas | I would second the jamison wheel to wheel drive. That thing is awesome compared to the old clutch. | ||
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pbutler![]() |
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Macon, IL | No he doesn't. Jamison Ag Repair, Colo Iowa if I remember. Search this formum you will find some posts. He can be hard to get a hold of (doesn't always return calls)-but product is really good. | ||
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farmerjon52![]() |
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A couple of questions... Did you just get 7/8 inch bearings and sprockets for the drive shaft that go on a newer planter or are a special order? Where is the down pressure spring setup from? What are the black plates by the parallel linkage for? | |||
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Robert W Greif![]() |
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Dallas Center IA 515-720-2463 | Jamison Ag does not have a website. I looked for the phone number without any luck. Call info. It is Area Code 641 Colo Iowa. Ask for Jamison Ag or Bob Jamison or Robert Jamison. The pic is his farm show display unit. Two of these on 7000 planters. A Hex-Shaft runs between the two, thru the hex hole in behide the two springs on the over run deal. At the red arrow. Chain from this shaft drive rear shaft of 7000 tranny. Pop settings are the same as factory. I know it also fits model 7200 Deere planters. For other Deere planters or other brands - Call. Also for fertilizer drive on newer planters with contact wheel or hydraulic drive for seed. Call for info. That is Bob Jamison in the upper right of the pic. Edited by Bobby Greif 1/11/2013 08:34 (DSC01214.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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deerecraig![]() |
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Northwest Indiana | 641-377-2627 is the number i have for Jamison Ag Repair | ||
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rocknkcattleinc![]() |
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NW Iowa | Yes I updated to the big hex shaft, bought about 40 feet and cut as needed. New bearings, sprockets, everything is 7/8. Rawson hydraulic drive, 16 electric row clutches on the units. The black plates are part of the down pressure spring setup. It's a dual HD aftermarket spring setup from Shoup. I went with the springs for now instead of spending the extra money to go with an air bag system, I already spent more than I needed. I had a blank slate to start with so anything was possible. (2012-03-10_09-30-19_797.jpg) (2012-03-10_09-29-33_247.jpg) (2012-03-17_21-01-48_61.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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WI Jeff![]() |
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Central WI | http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=300294&posts=7... Our planter with several mods, including shop built hyd drive. Have since put a DJ sensor in it as the gap wheel I tried didn't work, and the front plate has a STMM as well. Looking this year to add wave vision sensors as the current ones suck in soybeans. Other mods; chopped off insect boxes, PQ no till coulters, PQ no till fert openers, half curvetine, half spike closers, lengthened parallel arms to make room for the trash wipers and no till stuff, chopped marker arms off as didn't use them with the gps and just caught tree. Also have precision rebuilt meters, and Kinze brush meters. Pequea also makes a top drive, and other upgrades that are very well built. http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=278829&posts=5... | ||
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Hay Hud Ohio![]() |
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![]() SW Ohio | I am like others, not much original JD on mine, buts lots of tweakage. here are just a few....... (airbagafter01.jpg) (bladewear01.jpg) (bladewear02.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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rocknkcattleinc![]() |
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NW Iowa | What was the cost of your air bag system? Is it from precision? Is it just down force not up? TIA | ||
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stevehin![]() |
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central PA | Rock, nice job on the planter. Your closing wheels, did you ever think about the star shaped ones? I am thinking if one of the star shaped ones was put on opposite the regular closing wheel there might be better dirt coverage. There are several places to buy them. I saw Needham sells them | ||
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rocknkcattleinc![]() |
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NW Iowa | Thank you. Yeah it was a thought to go with the Dawn closing wheels, but I'm mostly in conventional-till corn on corn so rubber closes the gap, I have drag chains. In the future if I plan on adding the Dawn wheels & an air bag system. Edited by rocknkcattleinc 1/11/2013 09:22 (2012-04-26_17-34-55_584.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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stevehin![]() |
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central PA | Have any of you guys used the star shaped closing wheels. | ||
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Hay Hud Ohio![]() |
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![]() SW Ohio | I got it from Pequea, it sure looks like they just used off the shelf genuine JD parts and made one new bracket to make up for the different width, was about $280 per row and included an air compressor. Me thinks you could gather the parts and do it yourself cheaper. On mine I just mounted a 5 gallon truck tank on the frame and fill it from the semi which is right in the field with me nursing the planter anyway, turns out one fill up lasted me all season even when changing pressures several times, best down pressure-only thing I have come up with so far, have tried three different springs set-ups and air is great!! Some of my other mods are new two piece Keatons Spike closers quick adjust closer pressure PP everything in the finger unit single disc fert for 28% notched markers with extra weight SI dist parallel bushings JLP drive chain disconnects visiflo monitors on liquid Still need to redo the markers different, maybe add Jamison drive, floating or quicker adjust row cleaners | ||
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stevehin![]() |
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central PA | Ok Rock, I see the planter. Really nice. Here in PA there are not many big planters. I have a 6 row. I can tell you take care of yours. It just looks tight, I mean the parallel bars look straight. | ||
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stevehin![]() |
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central PA | Hay Hud, how do you like the spike closers? What are the JLP disconnect chains? | ||
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GREEN FARMER![]() |
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central mn | Thanks for all the replys, So if I put on the new style bearings for the closing wheels, what wheels do I need to order? I was looking on shoups site and don't have that figured out. I was planning on going through the deere finger meters, not sure I need pp meters? How much in the rawson hydraulic drive? How bout the jamison drive? This would be going on a 12 row narrow shoup bar, right now it has two transmissions. I would really like the electric drive for each row but that is way more than I wanna spend right now, just want to get it set up good and in the field. What are the advantages to the black plastic guage wheels over the older yellow ones? Thanks so much. | ||
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rocknkcattleinc![]() |
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NW Iowa | http://www.shoupparts.com/SH23780/ -stud kit http://www.shoupparts.com/CW3100/ -Kinze style offset if you like that? http://www.shoupparts.com/SH64340/ -closing wheel assembly http://www.grahamelectricplanter.com/ -Graham setup Last I heard the Jamison was around $1800-2000? A single Rawson drive setup depending how you're running it will be $3000-4000 range. If you're talking the Graham electric drive it'll be $12-14K plus, and they make a limited amount per year. Black plastic vs the metal yellow gauge wheel inserts is just the design to help keep the mud from building up in the older style rim. The black plastic is smoother with no lip. I like the black ones. Edited by rocknkcattleinc 1/11/2013 15:02 | ||
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Robert W Greif![]() |
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Dallas Center IA 515-720-2463 | The links that rocknkcattleinc posted are correct. If you want the offset covering wheels, plus the easy lever adjust the second link for the closing wheel assembly is the way to go. I think it was about $135- You do not need to put new Closing Wheel Arms on to use the Stud Kit. If you feel your present arms are in decent shape, you can go with the studs for about $88- per row. [ Stud kit $16- plus two wheels at $36- ea ] The bolt type closing wheels are $6- higher than the roll pin type. [ $36 vs $30- ] I feel you will get much more life out of the bigger bearing wheel. Enough more life to more than make up for the extra $6- Jamison Drive cost- rocknkcattleinc posted $1800- to $2000- I feel he is probably about right. Mine was $1300- in 2004. But I also got extra stuff to build a above the bar tranny. With the price increases in the last ten years $2000- does not seem out of line. Rawson Drive price - I feel rocknkcattleinc is low, very low. Back when I got a used planter with Rawson Drive, 2007, I was told $4300- for a single motor drive. And about $6200- for a two motor drive. That was from Rawson people. Plus all hoses, and you will want a Wisker Switch to turn it on and off. About $250- in 2007. There can be a lot of hydraulic hose on a two motor drive. However that is with a Rawson control box. Today many hydraulic drives are controlled by a GPS display suck as a Trimble 750, Ag Leader Versa and others. Not having to buy the control box from Rawson would cheapen it up a bunch. But not enough to pay for the GPS display. I fully believe a Deere 7000 can be rebuilt / updated to plant as good as the new ones. Note: Back in the early 1960s a Deere company man at a open house said a old 490 can count out seeds just as good as a then brand new 494A. But when it comes to attachments, the 494A has a whole lot more and better ones. The same is true today. 35 year 7000 in Good shape vs a new Deere. A 7000 takes a whole lot less hydraulic to run. Pic is the Jamison Contact Wheel Drive on my 7000 soybean planter. It is a wheels in front planter. The top of the bar tranny is made from Jamison supplied parts. The hydraulic motor and chain are for shop running only. In the field the chain is off and the hoses are not hooked up. Edited by Bobby Greif 1/11/2013 17:02 (DSCF1106.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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GREEN FARMER![]() |
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central mn | Thanks, my new to me planter does have the easy adjust closing wheels with the lever on them, and they all seem tight, I guess I don't think they are offset though. | ||
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rocknkcattleinc![]() |
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NW Iowa | The cost I put out there was basically for the Rawson alone minus hoses, switches or controls. I control mine with an FMX 1000. | ||
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GREEN FARMER![]() |
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central mn | I'm going to install john deere brown box in my planting tractor this winter, would that control a rawson drive or would i need to go to a 2600 display? thanks | ||
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rocknkcattleinc![]() |
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NW Iowa | This is a question for a Trimble man. It might be able to send it ground speed data but don't think it will be able to control population. | ||
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mailman13![]() |
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West Central Iowa | Here is the thread with my Jamison Drive system on a 7000 John Deere 12 row 30 inch planter. http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=50448&posts=10... | ||
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GREEN FARMER![]() |
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central mn | Thanks mailman, have you had good luck with it? | ||
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mailman13![]() |
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West Central Iowa | We have had good luck with the Jamison drive. The bearings they use are common to the planter already and we have replaced a few of them. The only issue we had was keeping a couple of the set screws tight that hold the sprockets from sliding. A dimple in the shaft under to help seat the set screw and some locktite will cure those issues. Or in our case, a tack weld for insurance. We also replaced the idler sprocket they provide for the transmission drive chain tightener with the plastic roller and metal bushing like the rest of the transmission uses. This gives a lot more margin for error in keeping the chain the right tightness. Overall, I would never go back to the original clutch and drive wheel chains! | ||
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lorenand![]() |
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Northwest Iowa | Last winter I added the proshaft drives to my 12 row 7100. I got tired of chains getting knocked off in notill soybeans from the standing stalks. I had to add the 7/8 drive shaft first and modify the mounting of the proshafts. The proshafts are actually only designed for the 7200 and newer planters with longer parallel arms. Worked good, very happy with the new setup. | ||
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ayrporte![]() |
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Eastern Ont | Closing wheel stud kit 5/8 bolt cut the head off and drill a hole | ||
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