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SE MN | I had a question for BIGFARMIN. How did u go about narrowing the frame with the cables and cylinder for the markers. Thanks for any input |
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Central WI | Ours used to be an 8 row frame, now cut down to a 6 row. We had another place do it, but I believe they just shortened the cables the proper amount and moved the marker attachment pieces in. |
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west central Iowa | When I changed an 8 wide folding to a 6 narrow I needed to add some length to the center section anyway so I just cut off what I needed next to the markers and welded it back on to the center section. Then I just put the marker actuator assembly back in and cut the cable to the length I needed. |
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SE MN | I am narrowing up 4rw to a 4rn. I will be using this for food plots and sweetcorn so i wanted to keep the frame as narrow as possible for sneakin threw the woods. But i kinda took a quick look in the tube and all the marker folding mechanism is close to the end of the frame . not sure if that all comes out and need to get shorter cables or what . |
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| I cut out 12" on each end, but I cut it a few inches in from the end, so I left the end of the tube with all of the marker brackets alone. I worked it out so the seam was under the first u bolt that holds the first row unit on. The cylinder assembly bolts right back in and that end works like it always did. Then I cut the cable going to the other side in the middle and clamped it back together so it was shorter by the total amount of frame removed -24". |
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| And after you take the markers off, there's just one or two bolts that hold that cylinder thing in there. After you remove them, it just lifts out and you can unhook the hose. It's simple, just take it apart and you'll understand. |
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| There's also a metal pipe in there for the hydraulic line. I cut 12" out of that as well and put it back together with a compression union. |
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| Been there done that. There is no shorter bar or cable. I didn't need to sneak between trees either. There's more to shorten that just the main tube and the left marker cable. There's also the fertilizer bar and that steel hydraulic tube inside.
I narrowed the wheel frame and moved the row units closer, had to drill a new hole in the hex main shaft to move the driven sprocket to the new wheel location. 
The markers are shorter, but they can't be shortened enough to be at the tractor middle, but hit the far tractor front wheel track which on my tractor is a much more precise spot to see and my guess rows are not detectable. That's the way the factory narrow planter works too.
I had to replace that steel tube for the marker, mice nests rotted a hole in it. There were none available from the factory and 4 years ago, only 2 in dealer parts in the whole US. I coated the new one with Black Jack roof tar to slow the rotting in the future. I recall it was a pain to get that steel tube in place. I used the plow coulters and ammonia knives to put down 32% 2-1/2" from the row and to cut straw so the trash whippers could separate it nicely. Fully no till. Gerald J. |
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| I would guess he wants to do like I did and cut off anything that's not relevant to putting corn in the ground and convert to mounted. |
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SE MN | Thanks bigfarmin gonna take markers off this afternoon.idid see the two bolts in there that hold everything in. Is there a reason you didn't cut off ends and then just weld thinks back in place? You said you just cut cables in center then did u just use cable clamps |
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| If you cut the ends off, you cut all of that stuff off, clean it all up, and get all welded back on straight. It just seemed easier to cut a chunk out of the middle and weld the whole end back on. You only have to cut the long cable, the other one should stay like it is. I just measured it before I cut and them clamped it back together so it measured the 24" shorter. I just used plain 'ol cable clamps. |
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SE MN | Thanks for the comments. Got cylinder pulled out the end it all makes sense now. I appreciate the help |
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NARROWING A JD 7000 PLANTER
